Nestled in the cool-climate embrace of South Africa’s Cape Agulhas, The Giant Periwinkle’s 2020 Kelp Forest Syrah is a wine that speaks to both the rugged beauty of its maritime terroir and the careful craftsmanship of winemaker Pierre Rabie. This Syrah, born from the boutique winery’s hands-on approach, carries the promise of Elim’s distinctive fruit purity and spice. But does it deliver on that promise? Let’s uncork it and find out, with a critical yet appreciative lens.
Appearance
In the glass, the 2020 Kelp Forest Syrah presents a deep ruby hue, tinged with a youthful purple edge that hints at its vibrancy. It’s opaque enough to suggest concentration but stops short of inky heaviness, offering a glimpse of elegance. The legs are slow and deliberate, signaling a wine with some heft, likely from its 14% alcohol, though it doesn’t scream “hot” at first glance. A slight sediment in older bottles might appear, a nod to its minimal intervention style, but nothing that detracts from its visual appeal.
Nose
The bouquet is where this Syrah starts to flex its coastal credentials. Soft red berries—think ripe raspberry and red cherry—mingle with a pronounced white pepper note, a hallmark of cool-climate Syrah. There’s a floral lift, perhaps violets, and a subtle briny undertone that evokes the kelp forests of its namesake. However, the nose feels slightly restrained, lacking the explosive aromatic intensity you might expect from a premium Syrah. A touch more complexity, perhaps some smoky or meaty depth, would elevate it further. Still, what’s here is inviting and true to its terroir, with a clean, pure expression.
Palate
On the palate, the Kelp Forest Syrah delivers a silky-smooth texture that coats the mouth with finesse. The fine tannins are well-integrated, providing structure without aggression, making it approachable now but with enough grip for a few years of cellaring. The red berry fruit carries through, joined by a dusting of white pepper and a hint of clove-like spice. There’s a refreshing acidity that keeps things lively, balancing the wine’s medium-to-full body.
That said, the mid-palate feels a touch lean, where a bit more fruit concentration or oak-derived depth could add weight and gravitas. The 12 months in a 1000-liter flexcube with French oak inserts impart a restrained vanilla and spice note, but the oak influence is subtle—perhaps too subtle for those who crave a bolder style. The finish is dry and lingering, with a saline, mineral edge that screams maritime influence, leaving a clean and appetizing aftertaste.
Overall Impression
The 2020 Kelp Forest Syrah is a delightful expression of Cape Agulhas’ cool-climate potential, showcasing lovely fruit purity and a refined, silky structure. It’s a wine that prioritizes elegance over power, which is both its strength and its limitation. While it could benefit from a touch more intensity and complexity to truly stand among South Africa’s top Syrahs, its balance and terroir-driven character make it a versatile and enjoyable pour. Pair it with herb-crusted lamb or a wild mushroom risotto to let its nuances shine.
Score: 88/100
A commendable effort from The Giant Periwinkle, offering a glimpse of Elim’s Syrah potential. With a bit more depth, future vintages could easily climb higher.
Perfect for: Cool-climate Syrah fans, food-friendly wine seekers, and those curious about South Africa’s southernmost wine region.