Giant Periwinkle Wine Estate: A Boutique Haven in Baardskeerdersbos
Tucked away in the rolling hills of Baardskeerdersbos, a quirky hamlet near Elim in the Cape Agulhas wine district, Giant Periwinkle Wine Estate feels like a secret whispered among wine lovers. As I arrived at this boutique winery for CapeVineMaster.co.za, the scent of fynbos and the sight of vineyards against Perdekop’s slopes greeted me, promising an intimate encounter with South Africa’s southernmost terroir. Founded by Pierre Rabie, a winemaker with a childhood passion for the craft, and his partners Karen van Helden and Robert Stelzner, Giant Periwinkle is a testament to bold creativity and non-interventionist winemaking. From its garagiste roots to its elegant, award-winning wines and a tasting experience that feels like catching up with old friends, this estate is a hidden gem—though its appointment-only setup requires a bit of planning. Join me as I uncork the story of Giant Periwinkle, its vines, its vintages, and the charm that makes it a must-visit.
A Legacy Born from a Dive
Giant Periwinkle’s story begins with a serendipitous moment under the waves. In 2009, Pierre Rabie, a Cape Town advocate with wine in his veins since age nine, planted 616 vines in Bredasdorp, dreaming of a winery that captured the Overberg’s cool-climate magic. While diving off Cape Agulhas near Suiderstrand, he spotted a cluster of alikreukel sea snails, inspiring the whimsical name “Giant Periwinkle” for his fledgling venture. By 2011, the first wines were crafted in rented spaces with handcrafted labels, marking the start of a garagiste journey.
In 2017, Pierre, joined by partners Karen van Helden and Robert Stelzner, relocated to South Cape Vineyards (formerly Tolbos/Die Werf), a small farm in Baardskeerdersbos. This 20-hectare estate, with just 4 hectares under vine, became their canvas. Pierre’s legal career keeps him in Cape Town, but his heart is here, crafting wines with Karen, a nature lover drawn to the Overberg’s seasonal hues, and Robert, a businessman embracing the valley’s quirks. Their boutique winery, now with its own cellar, has earned John Platter ratings of 4 and 4.5 stars and a 94-point score for the 2021 Blanc Fumé, cementing its reputation. The estate’s ethos—balance, creativity, and community—shines through, though I wished for a brief historical display in the tasting room to share their inspiring evolution.
Vineyards and Varieties: Terroir’s Bold Voice
Giant Periwinkle’s vineyards thrive in Baardskeerdersbos’ unique microclimate, part of the Cape Agulhas ward. At 200 meters above sea level, the 4-hectare site faces cool Atlantic breezes and salty air from Walker Bay, 30 km away, with clay-loam soils rich in shale and quartz. This cool-climate terroir, coupled with low yields (6–8 tons/ha), produces grapes with intense flavor and racy acidity, distinct from other South African regions. Pierre’s non-interventionist approach—hand-sorting grapes, whole-bunch fermentation, and minimal filtration—preserves the terroir’s voice, often using clay amphorae and large oak vessels for authenticity.
The estate grows three core varieties, supplemented by grapes from nearby Elim:
- Sauvignon Blanc: The star, delivering crisp, mineral-driven wines.
- Syrah: Cool-climate, with peppery elegance.
- Pinotage: Fresh and spicy, showcasing its Pinot Noir heritage.
- Cinsaut: A recent addition, adding light, fruity depth to blends.
These cultivars reflect the region’s maritime influence, with Sauvignon Blanc excelling in the salty, windswept soils. The estate’s small scale ensures meticulous care, though sourcing from Elim adds complexity to its offerings.
The Wines: Artistry in Every Bottle
Giant Periwinkle’s portfolio, crafted by Pierre Rabie, is a celebration of cool-climate finesse, with names like “The Bard” and “Wind Scorpion” nodding to Baardskeerdersbos’ arachnid-inspired heritage. The wines, recognized by Platter’s Guide and local festivals, are elegant yet bold, often unfiltered to preserve flavor. Here’s what I tasted:
- 21 Degrees Sauvignon Blanc 2023: Vibrant with blackcurrant, passion fruit, and kooigoed (helichrysum). Its salty, chalky finish is pure Agulhas, though it could use more depth to rival Marlborough peers.
- Blanc Fumé 2021: A lightly wooded Sauvignon Blanc (7 months in 500L French oak), with grassy nettle, white peach, and stony minerality. A 94-point stunner, but its limited stock is a frustration.
- Kelp Forest Syrah 2022: Cool-climate Syrah with red berries, white pepper, and silky tannins. Fermented 20% whole-bunch in a 1000L flexcube, it’s elegant but could age for more complexity.
- Sun Spider Pinotage 2022: Fresh cherry and spice with soft tannins. A lively take on Pinotage (70% crushed, 30% whole-bunch), though it lacks the weight of Stellenbosch versions.
- Coenraad de Buys (Syrah/Cinsaut): A Rhône-style blend with dark fruit and spice. Balanced and approachable, but it felt slightly overshadowed by the Syrah.
- The Bard Sauvignon Blanc: Barrel-fermented with baked apple and fynbos. Complex and poised, though oak slightly masks the fruit in youth.
Priced from R120 to R250, the wines are excellent value, with cellar-door discounts via WineSpy codes (10% off). My critique? The Pinotage, while charming, could push bolder flavors, and the Sauvignon Blancs occasionally lean heavily on oak. More stock availability would ease the hunt for favorites like Blanc Fumé. The use of amphorae and flexcubes is innovative, but I’d love to see experimental blends, perhaps with Chenin Blanc, to diversify the range.
The Tasting Room: A Personal Affair
The tasting room, a tastefully converted farm store overlooking a small dam, is the heart of Giant Periwinkle’s charm. Open daily by appointment only (contact De Wet Groenewald at +27 82 465 8350 or Robert Stelzner at +27 82 577 0645), it’s intimate and unpretentious, with a deck for sunny days and a cozy interior for misty ones. The standard tasting (R50–R75, waived with purchase) includes five wines, guided by Pierre, De Wet, or Robert, who share stories of the estate’s garagiste roots and quirky namesakes like Shakespeare and sun spiders.
My tasting with De Wet was a highlight, feeling like a masterclass in cool-climate winemaking. His warmth and tales—like the alikreukel-inspired name—made me feel like family, a sentiment echoed by visitors like Peter Elgemark, who praised the “super friendly” staff. The Blanc Fumé, paired with a simple olive bite, was a revelation, though I craved a cheese or biltong platter to elevate the experience, as some estates offer. The room’s small size ensures exclusivity but limits groups, and the lack of walk-in access may deter spontaneous travelers. The shop sells wines at cellar-door prices, with online orders available (not yet fully e-commerce), but stock can sell out quickly, as Henk Havenga noted.
Activities to Savor at Giant Periwinkle
Giant Periwinkle is a boutique operation, focusing on wine rather than extensive amenities, but its setting and hospitality make it special:
- Wine Tastings: The core experience, available daily by appointment. The personal touch is unmatched, but pre-booking is essential, and groups over six may need special arrangements.
- Deck Relaxation: The tasting room’s deck, overlooking a dam and vineyards, is perfect for sipping with a glass post-tasting (weather permitting). It’s serene, but more seating or shade would enhance comfort.
- Wine Purchases: Buy directly from the cellar, with favorites like The Bard and Kelp Forest Syrah available. Online orders via giantperiwinkle.co.za are convenient, though delivery can take a week.
- Scenic Surroundings: The 20-hectare farm, part of the Agulhas Wine Triangle, invites informal strolls among fynbos and olive trees. The Perdekop backdrop is stunning, but marked trails or a short guided walk would add value.
- Occasional Winemaking Experiences: Periodic workshops let visitors engage in blending or barrel tastings, as noted by Which Wine Farm. These are rare, so inquire when booking.
- Pet-Friendly Vibes: Friendly dogs are welcome, a bonus for pet owners, though the dam’s proximity requires supervision.
The estate’s lack of a restaurant, kids’ facilities, or formal tours keeps it low-key, best suited for couples or small groups seeking a personal experience. Nearby Gansbaai or Stanford offers dining and accommodation for a full day trip. The farm’s art exhibitions, like one planned for Baardskeerdersbos, add a creative touch, but they’re sporadic.
A Positive Yet Critical Review
Giant Periwinkle Wine Estate is a boutique triumph, crafting cool-climate wines that capture Baardskeerdersbos’ wild, salty terroir. The Blanc Fumé and Kelp Forest Syrah are standouts, earning Platter stars and festival buzz, while the tasting room’s warmth—thanks to Pierre, De Wet, and Robert—feels like a homecoming. The estate’s non-interventionist ethos, from amphorae to hand-sorted grapes, sets it apart, and its small scale ensures every bottle is a labor of love. The setting, with Perdekop’s slopes and fynbos, is a photographer’s dream.
However, there’s room for growth. The appointment-only model, while exclusive, limits accessibility, and the tasting room’s small size can’t handle crowds. Food pairings are minimal, and a charcuterie option would elevate the experience. Stock shortages, especially for top wines, frustrate buyers, and the website’s lack of full e-commerce feels dated. The Pinotage could push bolder flavors, and more experimental varietals would diversify the portfolio. Adding a short farm walk or historical display would deepen the visit, as the estate’s story deserves more spotlight.
Final Thoughts
My afternoon at Giant Periwinkle was a love letter to South Africa’s southernmost vineyards, leaving me with a bottle of The Bard, a heart warmed by De Wet’s stories, and a craving to return. The estate’s blend of passion, innovation, and terroir-driven wines makes it a hidden treasure, perfect for those seeking an intimate escape just 10 minutes from Gansbaai. Book your tasting, ask for Pierre’s dive tale, and raise a glass to a winery that’s small in size but giant in spirit. Giant Periwinkle isn’t just a winery—it’s a taste of Baardskeerdersbos’ soul.
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